Monday, March 28, 2011

Israel - 03.28.2011

Last Friday morning, early, after almost 4 hours of sleep, I took off from my home in southern Tel Aviv to embrace the unknown: traveling without the group and supervision, only my friend Melanie, to the Negev Desert. Be’er Sheva to be exact. What would be waiting for me would be a remarkable weekend working with Bedouins, and unforgettable experiences at what was called the Mud & Music Festival.

Melanie almost lost a hand holding the train door open. It was the wrong train we realized at the very second the doors were closing, and we barely managed to jump back to the platform at the HaHagana Train Station in central Tel Aviv. Here we are, holding our backbacks and sleeping bags, looking very American, surrounded by soldiers heading to their bases or maybe to see loved ones, laughing nervously at the thought of traveling around on our own. Once on the right train, we breathed a sigh of relief, although we still had to make sure we got off at the right stop. After successfully reaching the platform of Be’er Sheva Center Station, we refrained from patting ourselves on the back, as we still needed to find the 48 bus that would drop us off at a freeway bus stop in the middle of the desert. Now, we’re not as stupid as some locals around us were probably thinking, we were just fine – well, at finding the bus. There was still the matter of telling the bus driver in Hebrew to drop us 3 kilometers before the city of Dimona…

When we got off the bus, we looked around. Yep, we were at Qasr A Sir, the road entering the Bedouin Village. Scattering the dirt road in front of us was piles of garbage, run down shacks, and random barefooted children on rusty bikes, staring at us hike up the road. We waved, and they waved right back, looking curiously at us and our layers of belongings.

We arrived to see a good amount of people shoveling dirt, building a compostable outhouse, and more. We were served some tea, a staple of Bedouin life, asked to take a load off, and then grab a bucket. I was helping shovel dirt into these buckets which were brought to a circle of large sandbags. The goal of this unit was to become a dome, a communal hut if you will, for the Bedouins to use. There will be three total, I was told (But at the end of this weekend, as much as we completed, even one was an ambitious task!). Bedouins, Israeli’s and Americans alike, people from all over the world, were here to help out, and everyone was friendly, welcoming and interested in eco-building and sustainable living ideals.

At one point, I was cutting some rope. There were many kids running around, helping to shovel dirt into buckets with their little dirty bare hands. I tried to impress a couple of the kids by jumping rope. Then I look up, and I am surrounded by almost ten kids, and counting, as more come running over from who knows where! I taught them double dutch style jump rope, tug of war, and how to limbo for the next couple of hours.

For the rest of my weekend, when I wasn’t slinging mud on straw walls of half finished homes, or holding sandbags for people to poor dirt into, I was playing with these kids. They were so cute! They all loved the attention I gave them, showing me they can count to five in English, begging to use my small digital camera, and going crazy over my harmonica. I showed them how to make music with empty 2 liter soda bottles that you could find littered in ditches on sides of the road, and they let me hold their baby goats. It was amazing. They took some great photos of themselves, and were always shouting, “Ani!! Ani!!” (“Me! Me! As in, “my turn, my turn!”) And of course, always making the motions with their hands for more jump rope.

The night came and all the kids started to head home. Mimona, a very smart, sincere Bedouin girl, whom all the young kids looked up to, invited me to her home. I walked with her, a bit uncomfortable because I know her mother was not expecting me, and entered the front door. Her beautiful mother greeted me with a big smile, and after I explained that I was a volunteer from California, exclaimed, “We love America!!” She proceeded to guide me through her home, showing me every single room and pictures on the walls, even looking for any knickknacks that she could share with me. She and the girls seemed to share one room, the husband in another, the grandparents in another, it was a large home that was much more beautiful than I ever expected (except for the bathroom facilities, which pretty much is always just a hole in the ground...). It was a moment that I won’t forget for a long time; being invited inside and treated as if I was a movie star.

That night was also a great opportunity to really bond with the Bedouins, drink tea with them, eat with them, and even sleep next to them (we all shared a tent). Everyone brought their own veggies so everyone had this amazing communal meal of flattened pita, lentil soup with potatoes, salad with tomatoes, bell peppers, avocado, carrots, and more. We also had charcoaled pita, which we made from scratch and handed to the Bedouins, who rolled it around in a recently extinguished fire pit. Amazing.

I have been invited back to volunteer for three days and perhaps teach English to the kids for half a day, or maybe work with the Bedouin women, even just by simply being there and sharing positive energy.

I really can’t say enough how much I enjoyed helping out, and by looking around at their environment, and knowing what little I know about Bedouin society, it’s not an easy life. We made a big impact in their lives and I hope I will be returning soon for more experiences. Maybe I should bring more harmonicas…

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Israel - 03.22.2011

This past week has been very fulfilling for me! Last weekend the group traveled to the Negev Desert, where we set up sleeping bags under Bedouin tents, made pita from scratch, and learned to make poikey. That night I smoked hookah with two Bedouin muslims. One was 25 years old, named Solomon. I learned that he had 2 wives and 6 kids. His wives don’t like each other apparently, which he seemed okay with. They fight over me, he said with a subtle, satisfied smile. He’s a modern Bedouin, making money working at these tents made for tourists like me. He prays 5 times a day, but on his own time, none of that call-to-prayer tradition for him. And he probably does this in his Ed Hardy sweatshirt.

The next day we hiked Makhtesh Ramon Crater. For five hours. It was challenging, even difficult for most people, as there were steep inclines and scary descents on more than one occasion. I honestly loved it. I felt the burn for sure, but the result was worth it. The views were breathtaking, & the geological nature of the crater was mind blowing. I’ve never been to the Grand Canyon, but I can imagine this is what it would be like to hike through it. Except for the billion year old fossils of sea life you find along the way.

Volunteering has been really rewarding this week. Etgarim is fun, although a nerve racking experience. There’s not much instruction, it’s fair to say you’re left to find your way and figure it out as you go. It’s hard, for instance, to tell Ronnie, on his hybrid bike, to watch out for other people. I can’t remember how to say it in Hebrew when I’m feeling panicked. The other day I’m there I work with a different group of kids, including 8 year old, Hannah, who is autistic. She’s so sweet but she really doesn’t even communicate with words at all. Mostly I read her face, like her eyes, or her excitability level. I have brought one awesome skill with me to the table; my enthusiasm and energy. I cheer the kids on while we’re all en route, riding along the coast on bike paths, telling them “metsuyan!” or “tov me’od!” ("excellent!" or "very good!")Even though it’s scary to have their general safety in my hands, there are some things I guess you can just do on your own.

Mesila was fun last week for the toddlers. Melanie and I noticed these kids had like, NO toys. We took time to go shopping and brought some balloons. It was a huge hit. Since every kid was allowed a balloon, no one had to fight over who got to play with it first. Sharing is not an option for these kids... Another nice thing is that they’re slowly catching on to my routine song, “Head, Shoulders, Knees, & Toes.” They like the moves to that song anyway. It’s a very sad place. This one child kept begging to be held, over and over, and I finally realized he was pretty delirious, as in sick. I picked him up and he immediately fell asleep in my arms. He’s from Sudan or Areatrea, no more than 3 years old. His parents cannot afford to stay at home and take of the poor little guy. It’s a hard life for these kids. I can only go 2 hours a week according to this program, and it’s honestly not enough time for me, but it takes your EVERYTHING to be there, especially when there’s 20 other toddlers tugging at your clothes, wanting to play with you, and wanting to be held as well.

Omanoot is very cool so far, since my first assignment was to photograph a band at a cool venue called the Barbi Club. Next, more photos, as well as helping create a more visual look for their site, but all in due time.

The Blind Center has been really great. I started teaching a yoga class for senior citizens on Thursdays. It’s easier than I thought it would be, although one of the staff members had to take it too so she could translate everything for my "students." They are not only blind, they also barely speak English! This last Sunday they created a Purim party for all their members and volunteers. Not only did I set up food and drinks, but plated the food for members as well. Not usually a big deal, but I don’t know all the vocabulary yet for food, and I have to explain to them what the options are for them to eat! It was pretty funny. I was good at naming drinks at least. I'm noticing understanding Hebrew spoken back to me is also very difficult… Interesting situation! They really like me though (once again, energy goes a long way), and now some want me to teach them English. Love it!

Purim was insane here in Israel. Now, I have celebrated Halloween in the Castro in San Francisco, but I think even that comes to a close second on the party scale when it comes to Purim in Tel Aviv… I dressed up as a thought bubble. I wore all white, white long sleeve shirt, white skirt, white leggings, bought some bubbles, fabric markers, and walked around asking everyone to write their thoughts on me. It was creative and fun! Made for a great souvenir to bring home. Many of my friends and I started on Thursday night at an Etgarim dance party, which was really, really fun. Even little Ronnie was there, and we danced the night away. Friday during the day I went to a street party, then at night we went out to Florentine, the trendy, popular district within walking distance from our apartments. Then Saturday we just started all over again. Some of us went to the beach to hang for the day, and then came home to change back into costume and start the drinking again! Loving this holiday... On Sunday it was Ma’ayan’s birthday, so we all had a lovely pot luck dinner at our house, where I made Israeli salad and tabouleh for my first time. Everyone brought some amazing food, it was a feast and a great party.

I want to write more, but that is the last week in a nut shell, and I’m exhausted from running around. Keep your eyes on my Picassa for photos, and also on Facebook.

Missing everyone back home.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Israel - 03.01.2011

I bet you’re all awake at night wondering about my life here in Tel Aviv. Nothing that newsworthy happened the week before I went to Jerusalem, so I decided to just take some time and wait until some good material came about to share with you all.
Jerusalem was great. Jacob and I hitched a ride with his boss for the 45 minute journey towards the Old City. We were dropped off at a street with one of Jacob’s favorite places to get a “memulawak. It’s just a heavenly flaky dough wrap filled with Tahini, hummus, labaney cheese, tomato paste, egg, zatar spice... Jacob called it an appetizer, but I call it lunch AND dinner, the way it was so filling!

We walked over to “Fresh’s” place (Jacob’s cousin), where I met him & his girlfriend Sunny, from Russia, and roommate Yaron. They had a sweet but dumb cat named ShuShu, who had jumped out the 3rd story window awhile back. I also met their sweet dog named “Yuki,” who they were watching for their friend serving in the IDF. They were making sushi for dinner, it was ta’im me’od (very tasty). I asked if they made Shabbat dinner every Friday, and they told me they were atheist. I thought that was amusing, that I was in Jerusalem, eating Japanese on Shabbat with “atheist” Jews.

They had a bunch of people over that night, bringing not only good company but some licorice-esque hard liquor called Arak and After Shock. At first I was surrounded by people speaking Hebrew. Fresh occasionally called out loud, “Speak English!” I didn’t understand a single conversation around me! It was really funny, and a very unique experience. After a short time their attention turned to me, and everyone wanted to practice their English and find out about my life, and vice versa. It was a really cool night.

The next day we slept in, which seems rare for me these days, and it was fantastic to get some real sleep on the Jewish Day of Rest. When we were ready to take on the day, we wandered over to the Old City, literally a 5 minute walk away. On the way, we went down Mamila Street. Apparently, a long time ago, the building was to be moved over, and they wanted to make sure it was completely replicated, so they numbered every single brick, which you can see clearly. There’s also an art exhibit down this street, and this day (it alternates every couple weeks to new art) had sculptures featuring biblical characters. It was very impressive.

We walked to an extremely busy restaurant called Lina, which looked less than appealing outside, but served the best hummus and Tahini in Jerusalem, according to the locals. I now fully agree. I felt almost stoned after this meal it was so heavy, as is a lot of Israeli food, and we strolled up and down the corridors digesting, checking out the vendors and just taking our time and listening to the sounds and taking in the sites of the Dome Of The Rock and the like. It was great to not be hustled around by a guide or a group.

Great weekend get away….

This week has been pretty crazy because we’re gearing up to start volunteering. I start tomorrow!! I’m so excited. I am ready for some routine in my life, although I rarely say that. I was in the Takhana Merkazit (Central Bus Station) yesterday, looking to buy myself a weekly planner, and maybe some new, cheap sunglasses since mine just broke on me. But as I wandered around aimlessly, I started to feel claustrophobic, panicky, and agitated. People shove by you to get around this place, which is like a hectic mall, where dance music is blasting out of every store, and you get first hand Israeli attitude, which is to be rude and with no respect for personal space, and more often than not they don’t speak your language, or don’t want to. I had just had it! I never felt scared, really, just overwhelmed and frustrated. It was a hurdle that I had to overcome that day. A reality that this will not be the last time I have to endure.

On the upside, we went to “Dialogue in the Dark” that night as a group. It is a Blind Museum, where you feel your way through the dark, led by a blind or visually impaired person. One of my volunteering places will be at the Blind Center, so this experience was one I was really looking forward to. It was incredible. Our leader, Sadiot, was cheeky and mischievous, and led us through a maze in complete darkness. Every room was a different setting, and all you can do is use your other senses to get around. Following his voice into the maze, we “traveled” to different aspects of daily life, such as smelling the fruits at the shuk, walking along a city street with cars honking, sitting in a buoyed motor boat, feeling the wind on our faces and the current taking us. There was a music room, and at the end a cafĂ© with a bartender, who you could hear leave the bar to play the piano and sing (with an incredible voice). It was truly enlightening. I am really excited to work with blind people. I have never worked with anyone who’s had to strictly use other senses or abilities to get around.

After experiencing Dialogue in the Dark, I feel so petty when I recall my panic attack in the bus station. I am so lucky to have my vision, to have my senses (including common sense) to get me around. So now I optimistically look to the immediate future, as in tomorrow, to dedicate myself to helping people who need me to guide and assist them in their life. And I really believe they will help me, too.
Tomorrow night I start at Etgarim. Etgarim is a program designed to help kids and young adults with certain disabilities learn how to ride a bike. Many times I will be riding a tandem bike, with me on the front seat, and a youngster on the back seat. There are also special bikes that look like a hybrid of a go-kart and a tricycle. Those you pedal with your hands, in such cases where you don’t have the use of your legs. I will be riding alongside the kids using these as well. I am thrilled to start. I wonder how it will be with a language barrier…?

Stay tuned for more stories and information about my other volunteer places, the Blind Center, Mesila, and Omanoot soon!